Should you repair or replace it?

Usually only for a cheap fix. At 10 years a fridge is past most of its ~13-year life, so a $700+ compressor or sealed-system repair is rarely worth it, but a $200–$400 fan, thermostat, or ice-maker repair often still is.

Common refrigerator repairs run about $200–$600 (fan motors, control boards, ice makers, defrost parts). A compressor or sealed-system repair is the expensive category at $700–$1,250 and requires EPA-certified refrigerant work.

A refrigerator lasts about 13 years on average, per the National Association of Home Builders. Brand, usage, and whether the coils are kept clean move that number.

On most refrigerators, a bad compressor is the replace conversation — the repair runs $700–$1,250 and often approaches the cost of a new unit. The exception is a fairly new, high-end fridge whose sealed system may still be under a 5–10 year manufacturer warranty; check that first.

For a drain pump, door lock, or inlet valve on a machine under about 7 years old, yes — those run $100–$300 against a $600–$1,300 new washer. A tub-bearing failure on an older front-loader usually is not worth fixing.

Most washing machine repairs run $100–$400. Drain pumps, valves, and switches are on the lower end; a front-load tub bearing is the expensive, labor-heavy repair.

A washing machine lasts about 10 years on average, per the National Association of Home Builders. Front-loaders and top-loaders are similar; overloading and hard water shorten it.

Usually not. It is a full teardown of the machine — often three hours of labor — and the cost can approach a large share of a new washer, on a machine already near the end of its life. Run the replace math before committing to it.

Almost always, yes. Most dryer repairs run $80–$350, the parts are simple and durable, and dryers last about 13 years. Only a drive-motor failure on a very old dryer starts to favor replacement.

Common dryer repairs run about $80–$350 — heating element, belt, rollers, and thermostats are inexpensive. A drive motor is the priciest common repair at $250–$450.

Repair it. A no-heat dryer is usually a heating element, thermal fuse, or thermostat — $80–$350 — and those are among the most worthwhile appliance repairs there are.

A dryer lasts about 13 years on average, per the National Association of Home Builders. Cleaning the lint path and venting regularly extends it and prevents fire risk.

Under about 6 years old, yes for a drain pump, heating element, or door latch ($75–$250). A control-board failure ($200–$600) on a dishwasher near its ~9-year life often tips toward replacing.

Most dishwasher repairs run $75–$600. Pumps, elements, and latches are inexpensive; the control board is the costly repair.

A dishwasher lasts about 9 years on average, per the National Association of Home Builders — the shortest of the major kitchen appliances.

Repair it. A dishwasher that will not drain is usually a drain pump or a clog — a $150–$250 fix — which is well worth it on nearly any dishwasher under 6 or 7 years old.

Usually yes. A bake element, gas igniter, or temperature sensor runs $100–$300, and ovens last 13–15 years. Only a control-board failure on an older or high-end range starts to favor replacing.

Repair it. A no-heat electric oven is usually a bake element ($150–$300); a gas oven that will not light is usually the igniter ($100–$250). Both are worthwhile fixes on nearly any oven.

Common oven repairs run $100–$300 for elements, igniters, and sensors. A control board is the expensive repair at $200–$600.

An electric range lasts about 13 years and a gas range about 15, per the National Association of Home Builders.

For a countertop microwave, usually not — a magnetron repair plus labor approaches the cost of a new unit that starts around $150. Built-in and over-range microwaves cost far more to replace, so those are worth fixing.

On a countertop unit, replace it. A microwave that runs but will not heat is usually a failed magnetron, and that repair costs about what a new countertop microwave does. A built-in is the exception worth fixing.

Microwave repairs run $75–$300. A door switch or turntable motor is cheap; a magnetron is the costly one that usually favors replacement on countertop units.

A microwave lasts about 9 years on average, per the National Association of Home Builders.

For a door gasket, defrost part, or thermostat, yes — those run $100–$400 against a $400–$1,200 new freezer. A sealed-system or compressor failure on a freezer past 8 years usually is not worth it.

It depends on the cause. A defrost or thermostat problem is a $100–$400 fix worth doing. A sealed-system failure — where the compressor runs but nothing gets cold — is usually the replace conversation on an older freezer.

A standalone freezer lasts about 12 years on average, per the National Association of Home Builders. Chest freezers often outlast uprights.

Common freezer repairs run $100–$400 for gaskets, defrost parts, and thermostats. Sealed-system work is the expensive, often replace-instead category.

A jam, reset, or clog is worth clearing — a $70–$150 fix. But a leak from the disposal body or a dead motor usually means replacing it, since a new unit installed runs $150–$400, about what the repair would cost.

If it leaks from the body or the internal seals, replace it — those leaks are not economically repairable. A leak at a hose or mounting connection can sometimes be fixed for less.

First try the reset button and free the jam with the hex wrench — that fixes most of these for the cost of a service call. If it still hums with a free flywheel, the motor is done and it needs replacing.

A garbage disposal lasts about 12 years on average, per the National Association of Home Builders.